The end of summer event. A special night before returning to the normal working calendar. A unique and splendid festival before leaving behind the relaxing days of our summer vacation at Cerdanya, to face, once again, the day-to-day responsibilities. An event to keep in our memory, which serves as the beginning of a countdown to the next summer where neighbors, colleagues and friends will meet again, see each other, live together, laugh together on the leisure days and in the magical summer nights of Cerdanya. This was the purpose of the “Estany” festival that was born more than 130 years ago. The so-called, in those beginnings, Venetian Night Party, which has undergone a transformation, as is logical - and today - although it is a different event in its format, it maintains the same magic and meets its main requirement: the great festive and playful celebration that closes the summer doors. And during the days and nights that the festivity lasts, this farewell is lived with intensity and a certain nostalgia.
Before continuing there is a very recommended book for all those who want to learn more about the festival. "The Lake Festival (1886-2016) 130 Years of History, Tradition and Legend", written by the historian Oriol Mercadal -who was director of the Cerdà Museum and left us at the end of 2017- and the computer programmer, cultural activist and president of the Cerdanya Research Group, Enric Quilez. The book also counts with the collaborations of the archaeologist and technician in cultural heritage, Sara Aliaga and the collector and lover of local history, Martí Solé.
Puigcerda’s “Estany Festival” had its beginnings and still today programs part of its activity, at the lake, obviously. Although what I have just written is crystal clear and perhaps absurd to be emphasized, many of us are unaware of the lake’s history. Without a lake, would there be anything to celebrate today?
The first news of the existence of the lake date from the 13th century, specifically from December 2, 1260, as Mosen Jaume Martí i Sanjaume describes in his book Dietari de Puigcerdà. The lake's water supply comes from the Querol river, water is brought to Puigcerdà through an artificial ditch. In a text written by the engineer Josep Cordomí - today the spokesperson between the Ebro Hydrographic Confederation (CHE) and Cerdanya’s public administrations - for a bulletin published in 2005 by Puigcerdà’s Town hall and Sorea - the company that managed the water supply in Cerdanya’s capital (today Agbar is responsible for this service), "in 1310 the Puigcerdanese Consulate paid the royal Attorney five hundred ducats to cover the costs of irrigating the town". The water capture is currently in Riutés, on the Querol river, between the towns of La Tour de Querol and Porta. There is an edition of the regulations of the irrigation canal, for all those interested in the management of the canal and the lake, which includes, among other things, the water distribution between Spanish and French users. It is very interesting to know how this resource is distributed among the municipal administrations.
Now that we know that the lake is an element that has remained undisturbed in the history and landscape of the people of Puigcerdà, from generation to generation, since at least 1260, we can imagine the natural beauty of this place in the mid-19th century. And how this space lived, then, its special transformation with the arrival of tourism and vacationers. During the last third of the 19th century and until the first years of the 20th century, Puigcerdà was the preferred town by many Catalan bourgeoisie families who had their stately manors by the lake in the ceretan capital.
The origin of the festival
Puigcerdà took advantage of those years, during the Catalan Renaissance. It welcomed the bourgeoisie that led an important cultural movement that represented a resurgence, a true effervescence in many areas of the country's society. Cerdanya received vacationers who were of outstanding intellectual status in those years. And it was these vacationers who promoted the celebration that comes to us today under the name of “La Festa de l’Estany”. The organizers of those first events called it the "Venetian Night Party or Puigcerdà Night Party", according to the source consulted. The first festival was documented in 1886. Thus, this August will be the 137th anniversary of that first initiative. In its beginnings, however, the party was more elitist, designed only for the wealthy. The festival is very different today, always adapting to the moment and reflecting our days.
Currently, the Lake Festival is celebrated for seven days at the end of August. It starts on a Monday and ends on Sunday. It offers a bit of everything: music, concerts, dances, sardanas, theater, sports - with the lake crossing - parades, "Correfocs", "Castells", drummers and a long etcetera.
In my opinion, however, there are three aspects of the current version of the Lake Festival that stand out. Two mainly: the representation of the lake legend and the floats parade.
On Saturday night, the Old Lady of the lake, "La Vella de l’Estany", meets with the Prince of the Airs and the Princess of the Waters. This is one of the main acts. The version of the legend that I like most - there are different ones - tells us that the old woman is in her 90’s wearing a hood and doublet, that would come to represent the virtues of Ceretan women. Where the lake now exists, the woman had her house. And though she was forced to leave it, she resisted. Thus, she ended up living under the waters. They say that on summer nights, when it gets dark, she comes out of the lake, walks through the streets with a lantern, contemplates the changes that have taken place in town, and goes back into the pond.
The other outstanding act, perhaps the most important, is the Floats Parade, on Sunday morning. The cavalcade crosses the town, streets and squares, in a procession where different groups participate, coming from all over the region. The parade has gained strength and body in recent years. Today it is a competition that generates a healthy rivalry between groups to prepare the greatest float, the best costumes, the most original and creative components and themes. It is the festival’s activity with the highest participation and for which the troupes work all year.
The “Estany” Festival ends with the third aspect that I wanted to highlight. I know that fireworks are seen everywhere but I have always found the lake’s pyrotechnic show very poetic. A spectacular fireworks display that takes place around the lake. The gunpowder explosion lights up Puigcerdà’s sky in a tribute, a gift, a dedication to the summer lived.
Opening hours
Tues-Th 10:00 - 19:00
Fri-Sat 10:00 - 20:00