- 3 min read
The Koseler Hof inspires with modern North German cuisine
Creative cuisine in Kosel
Just over two years ago, enthusiastic chef Mario Laabs put the village of Kosel on the Schlei on the culinary map: In April 2021, he opened the Koseler Hof, where he and his colleagues serve up the finest dishes. From the very beginning, the team has been cooking under the motto "tradition in a new guise" - in other words, authentic North German with a modern twist.
Visitors can look forward to classic smørrebrød, but also to very special creations, such as lamb with fermented pear and pine or fried monkfish and prawns with vermouth foam, dill and barley risotto and marinated radish. Or how about a very special dessert of rhubarb, beet, cassis and meringue? The menu changes according to the season and the dishes are prepared exclusively with high-quality ingredients, most of which are sourced locally. The aim is to offer something for everyone, regardless of whether guests prefer home-style cooking or modern, sophisticated cuisine.
We spoke to owner and head chef Mario Laabs about the idea behind Koseler Hof and found out more about the concept, his culinary creations and his delicatessen Fienkost.
Engel & Völkers Schleswig-Holstein: You took the bold step of opening your restaurant in Corona times, and in a very rural region to boot. How did you still manage to make the opening a success?
Mario Laabs: Of course, I don't want to offend anyone, because corona has hit us all hard, health-wise, socially and also economically, but I quickly saw an opportunity in it and said that the glass must be half full, especially during this time. This also gave me the chance to negotiate a good lease and we had enough time to renovate and refurbish the farm. The opening then took place digitally, with over 500 people watching us via live stream, with great guests and companions joining us. For many enthusiasts, we then offered an "Opening Box" for sale in advance with treats and drinks for consumption during the show.
Engel & Völkers Schleswig-Holstein: What characterizes your cuisine and the dishes? Where do you get the inspiration for your creations?
Mario Laabs: I would describe the cuisine as very Nordic and local, I don't like the term "regional", in my eyes it has degenerated into a marketing farce in recent years. I like to work with North German classics, for example reinterpreting a Labskaus or the North Frisian cuisine in general, where my grandmother comes from, is very exciting. However, we don't just source products from the region. I like to play with products that I got to know and love during my years of traveling in France or Switzerland, but we also enjoy picking herbs or mushrooms here and have planted a small garden in the courtyard.
Engel & Völkers Schleswig-Holstein: Was or is it difficult to convince a village like Kosel of experimental gastronomy? How do you manage to find a balance to keep both the regulars from the village and expectant city dwellers happy and full?
Mario Laabs: Phew, we were initially very offended by my concept here, I just come from the upscale gastronomy sector and I can't get out of my skin, not everyone liked it and still don't today. Of course, we try to cater to the needs of the club or association at larger community events, but at some point we had to make a decision: What do we serve on a day-to-day basis? The decision was quickly made in favor of fine dining. This has always ensured a full restaurant and has also made me happy in my work and my life - and that's what self-employment is all about.
Engel & Völkers Schleswig-Holstein: Where did you learn to cook? What stages did you go through before you decided to open your own store?
Mario Laabs: I was incredibly lucky back then to receive a sound education at the Altes Gymnasium, in Husum. I was able to get to know all areas, from large banquets and breakfasts to Michelin-starred restaurants. I then fine-tuned my skills during my years of travel in France, Hamburg and Switzerland. I learned the best in every restaurant, and not just in terms of craftsmanship. It was great to see how some chefs deal with their teams and what it takes to ensure motivation and a good working atmosphere every day. That quickly showed me: "I want to pass that on too!"
Engel & Völkers Schleswig-Holstein: In addition to the restaurant, you also run your own manufactory, Fienkost. What can people try there and where can they buy your products to take home?
Mario Laabs: That's right, the trade and production of preserved vegetables, sauces, dips and high-quality salts and oils was actually the start of our independence and is still a core business of the company today. Of course, you can buy the goods from us in the yard, but some select Rewe branches also stock our range. In addition, some smaller delicatessens also offer our products. An online store is planned for the future, as we are also receiving an increasing number of inquiries from former holidaymakers in the region who have tested our products here.
Engel & Völkers Schleswig-Holstein: Gastronomy moved into the Koseler Hof back in 1836. Why did you choose Kosel as a location and this building in particular for your restaurant? What do you like about this region? Do you have any insider tips for our readers?
Mario Laabs: During the Corona period, we were looking for a location where we could serve our sophisticated dishes, celebrate parties and develop in equal measure. When I was offered the inn and we received a lot of support from the municipality, it was immediately clear that something great could be created there. Kosel is also very centrally located between Eckernförde and Schleswig.
As a guest of our region, the water is always worth a visit, that's what I love here so much, the Schlei region in general is unique. I don't have any real insider tips, but with a twinkle in my eye, I would like to conclude by saying that we are planning some very interesting projects for the future, which may then be considered insider tips.
Engel & Völkers Schleswig-Holstein: Thank you very much for the exciting conversation and good luck for the future!
Koseler Hof
Alte Landstraße 2
24354 Kosel
Opening hours:
Monday: Closed
Tuesday to Sunday: 17-22 o'clock
+49 (0) 4354 1320
You may also be interested in
